This entry is a part of Kashmir Diaries mostly woven from snippets you have already read. It is about PoleStar. Our tour guide. He joined us on Day 3 of our Kashmir trip, on our trip to Pahalgam. Why there is a separate entry about him, read to figure out -:)
DAY 3 - Trip to Pahalgam
We were going from Srinagar to Pahalgam. Distance 90 km. On the way we were to stop at saffron fields. And also to see dry fruit trees and apple orchards.
Stop 1– Saffron Fields and Dry Fruit Trees
I was expecting to see fields full of saffron and trees laden with walnuts and almonds. Though what we stopped at was an emporium type shop that sold these – saffron and dry fruits. They said it was handled by some farmers themselves and the items here came directly from the farms.
But imagine, an emporium of size 10*5. It had 33 of us, 5 staff members and other visitors. At least 50 people in a 50 sq metres room. I was bound to suffocate.
As much as I loved the complimentary kahwa and wanted to check out saffron, I walked out of the shop within a few minutes. And took a stroll around on the highway. Skipping one shop from this saffron and dry fruits emporium, was an emporium that had wooden items. The best part about it was- It was empty. The environmentalist I want to be, I still love wooden items. Wooden boxes, wooden houses, everything. (You don’t have to chop trees, just make stuff out of the ones that have fallen or by chopping old branches).
So, I checked it out. It was nice and all, though I didn’t find anything of practical use. Most of the stuff was decorative items. My heart came on a wooden box. It costed 12500. 12500 for a box? We get wooden items in Delhi as well. Had I to name a price, I would have said 2000 for this one.
Anyway, the shopkeeper said he would give me a discount. I went back to tell my mum and Khushbu. This time I got Khushbu with me. We tried to bargain. Giving him our last price as 5000. He gave us his last price as 9600 after talking to someone. ~ 20% discount.
It was then our guide appeared in the shop out of nowhere. I don’t remember either me or Khushbu asking him to accompany us. We hardly knew him. He came on his own accord. But for some reason, his presence felt welcome. Like he was someone on our side. He spoke to the shopkeeper in Kashmiri. But that shopkeeper did not go below 9600.
We took the shopkeeper’s card and decided to come back if we didn’t find any better deal later. Although I knew that it was unlikely the bus would stop for us to buy a woodbox on the way back.
This was the first time we saw our guide. He looked like a young chap, probably younger than all of us. Still looking out for us. Without even asking!
Stop 2 - Apple Orchards
Here this new guide walked my mum through the apple trees and probably told her everything she wanted to know about them. I just clicked pictures of them and of myself with sheep and pigeons and trees.
Stop 3 - An unintended stop
Our check in at the hotel was scheduled for 2 pm. And it was 1. So we stopped over for lunch and shopping in a marketplace. Walking around I spotted a girl selling wooden keyrings. I knew I had found my stop for the next few hours. Me and my mum bargained for a bulk price. I started getting keyrings for all my friends and family, at least the ones I could remember. I asked my mum to take a look around the market while I got these made. Because this would take long and then she wouldn’t be able to have lunch or check out the market.
But my mum, if you know her, she wouldn’t leave my side even for shopping and food. :p Then our tour guide passed by. I realised I didn’t even know his name. Was I supposed to call him tour guide the entire time. :D?
I asked for its name and its meaning. Now the name and its meaning is confidential :D. But for some reason it reminded me of the pole star. So from now on we will call him Pole Star. He went off and I got one keyring made for him. Something for him to remember us by. :p
In the next 20 minutes while I was still dictating names and getting keyrings made, I had asked my mum to go and have lunch and shop. I knew she wanted to check out the market and have something to eat but she wouldn’t leave me alone here. While I was asking her to go for the umpteenth time and she was refusing for that many times - Polestar came on his round back to us. I showed him his keyring. And my mum said – You should also have something to remember us by. She knows everything I think without even me saying it :p – very well. :D.
I asked her again to have lunch and shop while she still had a chance. I could get these keyrings done on my own as well. For some reason, unexpectedly, this time she agreed. She asked PoleStar where the others were and left for the Nathu Sweet Shop. But before going she also told him to stay with me. Like I would run away or something!
I am like – waah – I am asking you to go so that you don’t get bored. And you are setting up this poor soul to get bored seeing keyrings made for unknown people with an unknown me. But little could I say anything or she would herself starve and stick by me.
So, now my mum went. And PoleStar started dictating names along with me to be made on the keyrings. The conversation started with who were the people whose names were done. And the common names. Like my mama is called “Princy” and he calls his mother “Princy”.
Then it went to what we both did. As much as I had guessed, he turned out to be a college dude. Who loves cars. Our favourite car turned out to be the same one – Scorpio. Although I like the red scorpio and he liked the white one. :p
After getting all the keyrings done, taking a few pictures with the cutesy little girl who made them, we went off.
Now, we had the full market to check out and a few minutes left. Given my love for all languages and wish to speak in all different ones, I asked him to talk to me in Kashmiri. He did and I guessed what he said for a while. It was fun. Although given my abysmal memory, out of the 4-5 sentences he taught me, I only remember two words-
Mish - my
Kaava- crow :p
While walking down the marketplace, we came across a masjid. I have only seen masjids on TV. Never been to one! I asked him if Hindus could go inside a masjid alone. Turns out we could though there are some simple norms, like covering our head etc!
As much as I wanted to go inside, I knew the ruckus I would cause if I did. So, this time I made peace with just a selfie outside the masjid with PoleStar.
And then we went back to the bus stop where our group was supposed to assemble.
So, this unintended stop, to the market, turned out to be quite nice. I got souvenirs and got to know PoleStar a little.
DAY 4 - Trip to Gulmarg
Singing Songs
It was Sunita aunty’s birthday. Sethi uncle, our official and unofficial presenter and leader, sang all the birthday songs he knew. Some other folks also sang their favourites. And I was obviously their unofficial photographer and videographer for the trip.
I recorded them, then sang a few of my favourites in my singsong, no melody voice -:p. PoleStar also presented aunty with one song - Mere Sapnon ki Raani. -:D His voice is far better than mine. :p
I would have loved to hear more songs from him but jitna mil jaaye usme santushti rakhni chahiye insaan ko.
Then we stopped over for brunch at some dhaba, I think it was called Raja Dhaba. Again, I didn’t feel like eating for some reason. I told my mum I will take a stroll to the opposite side of the road and took off.
I did find something that looked interesting two blocks away- Artisane Gallery. PoleStar being the omnipresent person that he is – saw me going off. We spoke in sign language from around 2 blocks or 60-70 metres distance between us. I told him I will be fine by myself and went inside the gallery. This place had a very aesthetic feel and a very pleasant owner. He showed me around. Some workers were weaving Pashmina shawls, some weaving carpets. It was like a showcase. Usually all this work would be done in some villages in communities.
Just as I was talking to this man who was showing me around, PoleStar came breathing heavily. He must have run up till here. I had told him I would be fine. But aaj tak meri maa ne iss baat par bharosa nahi kiya meri, to ye to bechaara abhi mila hai!
Although just like the previous time, when he had appeared out of nowhere in the woodwork shop, it was good to have him here.
We checked out the place together. The gallery and their wooden artefacts room. I saw a similar woodbox again, but again at the same price - 12500 with some 12% discount. What didn’t make sense was there were just 2-3 boxes. I wanted to buy from a place that had them in bulk I could choose from. But seeing the same item at two places at exactly the same price made me feel maybe it was of this standard price. I took the place’s card. And the owner’s number. And we started to walk out.
Just then our bus driver came running in saying - Your mum is freaking out looking for you with a glass of milk. I remembered I had ordered buttermilk and told my mum I was across the road. Whereas I was two blocks away from where she expected me. I had lost track of time and I knew my mother. She would have stressed out not finding me where I was supposed to be. I literally ran back to the dhaba at full speed.
Got an earful from all uncles. My mum was on the verge of tears and had panicked more than I had expected. I was doomed. Khushbu told me on the bus what all they had imagined in a span of 10 minutes when they didn’t see me around. My mum was silently crying to herself. I was myself surprised by their imaginative skills. It is enough to say, none of the scenarios they had imagined are suitable for putting on paper. What I heard will have stay between me, Khushbu and my Krishna ji. :p
I got scolded enough to spoil my mood for the entire day. No more songs, no more mood.
See, I very well know it was my fault. Knowing that my phone didn’t work here, I should have told them the exact place I was going to. I should have come back within 10 minutes rather than getting carried over by the aesthetics of an art gallery. I should have not given them the chance to let their imagination run wild with worry!
Par phir aise chote chote shehron mein aisi choti choti baatein hoti rehti hain. Had I behaved the way I was expected to..to ye script kaise banti? I couldn’t have written it on my own using my imagination and creativity :P
The only relief was– Hopefully they didn’t say anything to PoleStar over my carelessness. So, on later thoughts, after the day is just a story –Thankyou Krishna Ji for this script and this experience :) This story I ll fondly remember as what Khushbu tells everyone– “Ladki ghum ho gayi thi humaari” -:p
DAY 5 - BACK HOME
After the Shikara ride and living the song - Sochon ke jheelon ka Sheher ho, recorded in Day 5 in day wise details, let me jump directly to Mughal Garden.
Stop 1 - Mughal Garden
Getting tickets - As you by now know, I leave no chance to leave the bus and crowd. So, I got off with Dhingra uncle and PoleStar to get tickets. There was a queue but PoleStar had priority -1. He got tickets for us before the 0th person in the queue. The bad part was when asked to calculate the fare. 1 ticket costed 24 bucks. There were 32 of us. So 24*32 = it was easy, (24*30=720+ 24*2=48 = 768). Still I was using a calculator to verify. Uncle ne calculator se pehle kar liya.
And said – Galle par baithte the to calculator ko haath nahi lagaate the. Ye Dhingra uncle bhi naa underrated star hain. Aur hum farzi engineers. Chote se calculation ke liye calculator khol kar baith jaate hain :p Ab se decided, I won’t use a calculator to do these small day to day calculations. Sab pehle ki tarah mentally kiya jaayega.
De tour to Shopping
From the bus to the garden it was around 50 m. And there was a market complex in between. Needless to say, all the ladies detoured to the market without a second thought. Garden to dekhte rahenge, shopping is important. Ticket khareed bhi li to bhi kya hua.. :p. And since my mum also went to the market, I had to follow her. After yesterday’s 10 mins high adrenaline drama, I could not afford to step anywhere away from her. :p
I checked out the shops and found a wood shop while she was at a suits shop. This woodshop, unlike the huge emporiums and galleries I had been to, was a small one, but housed more items and at cheaper prices. The wood box that was marked for 12500 everywhere, was offered for 5000 here. My happiness knew no bounds. This woodbox I had been wanting since the last two days. I wanted it since I had laid my eyes on it. And here it was, at a price that seemed logical finally. After showing it to my mum and PoleStar and taking the expert advice of the shopkeeper, I finally got my precious for 4000.
And if you have not noticed, PoleStar is the only person who was at all the three places with me where I went- to get this woodbox. Khushbu was at first, my mum at the third. But he was at all the three. (1st the wood shop near the saffron emporium, 2nd the Artisane Art Gallery, 3rd here, at Nishat Garden Market Complex).
How he did that, either God knows or he knows. -:p.
Mughal Garden
Finally we went to Mughal Garden. At this time I felt like all was done. Like I had gotten everything I wanted! I was happier than I could be!
My mum had somehow misplaced her ticket and PoleStar got her in without one. Jaan Pehchaan :p
Here in the garden, we all clicked pictures, selfies and exchanged numbers.
Finally after four days of sitting on the rear seats of the bus, today I got the front seat from Gupta Uncle. And I also got an ice cream - an orange bar. In fact my second ice cream for the day!
Let me skip the part where we went to Lal Chowk to see the ghantaghar and I lost my water lily bracelet.
And then we went for lunch, again at a small shop. I started walking towards the shop from my left side, and everyone took the longer route from the right!
PoleStar just off hand said something like - When everyone goes left, you go right. When everyone goes right, you go left! That's so cute :D :p
I didn't know I did that, at least intentionally :p. And I got off first, so he should have said that to everyone else logically.. since they went the longer opposite way!
Par haan dude, cute to hoon main -:P! Ye sahi pehchaana tumne :D
As usual I didn’t feel like eating! And felt suffocated at being packed in with so many people.
I took off again and as usual PoleStar wouldn’t let me slip out of sight even for a second. The funny part is -- He seemed to have no issues in slipping out with me but letting me go off by myself, alone, forget it :p. He behaved like a GPS tracker on me or something.
Ajeeb hi praani hai but a nice one :p
I did spot a Durga temple nearby to check out. I went to get permission to see it. Though it wasn’t granted. We were running out of time and thankfully, this time we didn’t get a chance to create a frenzy.
Off to the airport
And then with a few final views of Kashmir we went to the airport.
PoleStar got off before that. With a few selfies!
We said our goodbyes. Me with my usual handshake, him with his fist bump/brofist.
Back Home
I got down at Delhi airport. Looked around out of habit!. No Polestar in sight! So, my geo tag gone!
It was a welcome home! -:p
Just a few hours back, whenever I used to look around, I would spot him. And at times when I would not, I would find him by my side. How he managed to do that, as I said earlier, God knows or he knows.
Honestly, I was sceptical about going to Kashmir after we all heard about the recent disturbances there. But since our trip was pre planned we went there taking Krishna ji’s name.
But with so many responsible and caring people in our group and with him around, I didn’t feel the need to be extra careful anywhere.
Most of the time, I would see PoleStar coordinating with maybe some other stars over the phone. -:D And standing at a place where he could be spotted from anywhere. And then, if you tried to go out of his sight, he would follow you so that you didn’t get lost.
Remembering all the past few days, I smiled to myself and walked ahead.
As much as I had gotten used to my geotag, here I didn’t need one. I had his number. I could talk to him. After all I want to be fluent in Kashmiri next time I go to Kashmir and if possible even know how to read and write in Urdu. -:) and now I have a new friend there. All the more reason to go.
-- manu
-- twwg
PS-
1. If you have read it till here, you deserve to know my friend's name -- My PoleStar's name is Yamin -:)
2. You might be wondering why I found Yamin so charming. Even I was wondering the same for a long time, before I finally could figure out what was so special about him and my encounters with him-
Very few people in life come and stand with you. Ever fewer without you asking them to! Just like that! So that you don't feel alone. And you know they are there! It is so rare that it was a first time for me when someone just came and silently stood by my side! Not once or twice, every single time since the day he joined us. And didn't even express it.
Now, he might have done all this subconsciously, as his duty as a guide! But for me that concern and gesture, means a lot more than I can express!
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